Aigner –
40 years of success under the sign of the horseshoe
Europe. Germany. Munich.
In 1965, that was the best place to found a new major German fashion brand. One man took advantage of the propitious moment and the perfect fashion location that Munich represented at that moment: Heiner H. Rankl. A businessman with an infallible feeling for the future combined with an intelligent sense of tradition. When Rankl met the creative Hungarian Etienne Aigner and his perfectly fashioned, hand-made creations of superbly elegant leather goods, the cult brand ‘Etienne Aigner’ was born.
The horseshoe symbol did credit to the firm right from the start: luck was there for the grasping in those years, and it remains so even today for the Aigner brand.
When the future wasn’t threatening
A sense that a new era was emerging prevailed in the mid-1960s and 1970s, with a widespread belief in progress and a euphoric view of the future. A feeling for the lightness of Being pervaded the social scene, and in Munich, with its close affinity to Italy – where ‘la dolce vita’ was always much closer than anywhere else in Germany – this feeling manifested itself especially strongly. At that time, people in Munich had no need to search for the meaning of life, because they had their own approach to life. It was wild, and it became even wilder over the years. Flower power! Parties! Love! Discos! Jet set! – those were the words that described freedom on a grand scale.
Design followed this trend, as it always follows an attitude to life. It was young, mainly streamlined and futuristic, and it liked to wear the colour orange. Photo artists such as Gundlach, David Bailey and Irving Penn, who staged the design scene in the sixties and seventies, thought graphically with regard to the structures and effects of their images. Fashion became popular, and Donna Summer paid tribute to it in her song ‘Love to Love You Baby’. Courr?ges, Cardin and Colani all endeavoured to create the future, which was a pleasant fairy tale where good always triumphed because James Bond was there.
The spirit of this freedom inspired the then youthful brand ‘Etienne Aigner’. As wild horses were the best match to those wild years and their wild parties, the Aigner Race Days organised just outside the gates of Munich by the prestigious brand became a highlight of the German social scene, which at that time was fully inexperienced in the world of events.
Its men wore heavy gold chains and widely unbuttoned shirts, cultivated broad sideburns to complement their Afro look, and viewed the world audaciously through tear-shaped sunglasses, while women endorsed sexy, geometric styles, dared to don ultra-short miniskirts, and wore extra-long overknees. At that time, Aigner gave his products a rustic look that suggested close association with racetracks and open fireplaces, and the mere mention of the name Aigner was enough to conjure up the scent of the finest leather goods.
And for the first time in the history of the advertising world, prominent figures publicly displayed their attachment to their cult brand. People such as race car driver Clay Regazzoni, actress Gina Lollobrigida and football star Franz Beckenbauer would have shrugged their shoulders in puzzlement at the now so current word ‘testimonial’ – they were simply Aigner fans from the very start, and they lent an air of elegance to the brand because the parties that Rankle organised with Aigner were tops. As regards marketing and advertising, those days were nearly prehistoric.
Aigner, the cult brand for lifestyle and flair
When there were still men in Europe who called themselves playboys and a few women who were regarded as fashionably smart and debauched, when Brigitte Bardot and Gunter Sachs were writing history on the society pages, an Aigner belt was an absolute must. It was the very minimum you had to be able to afford if you wanted to show that you were hip to the modern age and its international flair.
Anyone who wore a belt with the horseshoe in the middle of the buckle, or even better, anyone who toted a large, voluminous Aigner bag, became part of the larger world, and they did so in a manner that was simultaneously fashionable and recognisably respectable.
Artisanal skill and entrepreneurial spirit
Aigner always managed to marry traditional leatherwork with the contemporary zeitgeist. The young company expanded initially in Europe; Japan was the first truly distant international market to be conquered in Aigner in the 1970s. The new German luxury market had already established a reputation throughout the world of leather goods by the time when the Munich company began to extend its high standards of style, material and artisanal finishing to other market segments. Silk kerchiefs, leather jackets and handkerchiefs marked its entry into the world of fabrics.
They were followed by ties, umbrellas, scarves and hats, and in 1975 a distinctive, eternally classic aroma for men was created in the form of Aigner N1. The brand distinction and extreme exclusivity of the luxury leather articles were also adopted in these areas.
Ultimately, the two founders of Aigner, Etienne Aigner and Heiner Rankl, recognised far earlier than others that as soon as people own brand accessories, they enter into a brand world and thereby endorse its unmistakeable philosophy. They viewed the typical Aigner customers as ‘top earners and aesthetes willing to make sacrifices’.
The characteristic Aigner ‘A’ in combination with the typical Aigner shade of red quickly became the hallmark of not only the very best bags, belts and fine luggage, but also leather-covered cigarette lighters, corkscrews, manicure sets, a variety of accessories for pipe smokers, and even a case for backgammon games.
More as a result of intuition than calculated intention, this gave rise to a brand world that illuminated and complemented a personal environment characterised by enjoyment, savoir vivre and style. Aigner has remained true to this principle through all the years, even long after the two original founders of the now internationally recognised prestige brand were no longer able to contribute to its activities.
That’s because then as now, whoever chooses Aigner chooses durable style instead of a fleeting fashion gimmick; then as now he or she is guided by an unfailing sense of good taste instead of blindly following fashion trends. As can be seen, Aigner customers have remained loyal through all the years: they look for luxury instead of status, and they clearly prefer style to fashion. That’s how it has been for 40 years. And that’s how it will remain. The Aigner horseshoe is a symbol of the very best artisanal quality and the most discerning sense of fashion. A symbol of true values from Munich, from Germany, and from Europe.
Aigner company history
Aigner – A Name Goes International
1904 Etienne Aigner is born in Hungary.
In the 1930s, the designer discovers his love for leather.
In Paris he designs and develops the handbag collections
for several Haute Couture establishments.
1950 Etienne Aigner presents his first collection in New York –
a brand name is born. The monogram - derived from the
name Aigner in the shape of a horseshoe - soon becomes
an international symbol for quality and modern style.
1965 Etienne Aigner's company is founded in Munich.
1972 Etienne Aigner S.r.I. is founded in Italy and is responsible for
the entire leather production. The range of products is
expanded to include luggage and shoes.
1973 The brand goes international and the franchising system is
introduced.
1974 Fashion accessories including silk scarves and ties are
introduced.
1975 Aigner enters the cosmetic market with the scent ”Etienne
Aigner No. 1”.
1978 Aigner presents its first fashion collection: casual elegance for
women and men.
1979 Etienne Aigner becomes a public limited company.
1982 Aigner introduces the Treasure line with watches and jewellery.
1983 The company goes public.
1987 Licence granted for eyewear; introduction of the Aigner
Eyewear collection.
1990 Licences awarded for womens’ and men's wear.
1994 Introduction of a new Aigner Corporate Identity.
2000 Designer Etienne Aigner dies at the age of 96 years in New York.
2001 Aigner awards the licence for watches to pe.timedesign/Pforzheim.
2002 Aigner inaugurates the new flagship store in Munich.
2003 First Aigner catwalk Milano Moda Donna.
Opening a new Aigner Store at Terminal 2/Airport Munich.
2004 Sabatini S.p.A.: new licensee for Aigner womenswear.
Nigura/D?sseldorf: new licensee for glasses.
New Licence for jewellery and writing to pe.timedesign.
Today Aigner is known as an international prestige brand. The Aigner brand is available in 40 countries through a network of 135 franchise shops and about 300 outlets.
